云南美食的名片，混得比螺蛳粉还惨
<img src="data:image/svg+xml,%3C%3Fxml version=1.0 encoding=UTF-8%3F%3E%3Csvg width=1px height=1px viewBox=0 0 1 1 version=1.1 xmlns=http://www.w3.org/2000/svg xmlns:xlink=http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink%3E%3Ctitle%3E%3C/title%3E%3Cg stroke=none stroke-width=1 fill=none fill-rule=evenodd fill-opacity=0%3E%3Cg transform=translate(-249.000000, -126.000000) fill=%23FFFFFF%3E%3Crect x=249 y=126 width=1 height=1%3E%3C/rect%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"><img src="data:image/svg+xml,%3C%3Fxml version=1.0 encoding=UTF-8%3F%3E%3Csvg width=1px height=1px viewBox=0 0 1 1 version=1.1 xmlns=http://www.w3.org/2000/svg xmlns:xlink=http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink%3E%3Ctitle%3E%3C/title%3E%3Cg stroke=none stroke-width=1 fill=none fill-rule=evenodd fill-opacity=0%3E%3Cg transform=translate(-249.000000, -126.000000) fill=%23FFFFFF%3E%3Crect x=249 y=126 width=1 height=1%3E%3C/rect%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"><p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><strong style="color: blue;"><span style="color: black;"><strong style="color: blue;"><span style="color: black;">做为</span>云南美食的“名片”，过桥米线曾经“红得发紫”，如今怎么就<span style="color: black;">逐步</span>没落了？</strong></span></strong></p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;">作者 | <span style="color: black;">贾 辉</span></span></p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;">编辑 | <span style="color: black;">陆一鸣</span></span></p><span style="color: black;">题图 | 图虫创意</span><span style="color: black;">封面<span style="color: black;"> | 《去有风的<span style="color: black;">地区</span>》</span></span>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;">曾经，<span style="color: black;">机构</span><span style="color: black;">周边</span>一碗小小的过桥米线，就能让疲惫的打工人梦回心中的诗与远方——云南。</span></p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;">然而，随着一间接一间的过桥米线店的倒闭，打工人和云南间这点微弱的连接<span style="color: black;">亦</span>要被切断了。</span></p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;">做为</span>和沙县小吃、兰州拉面比肩的中国快餐巨头之一，过桥米线的门店曾遍布全国的大街小巷，如今却<span style="color: black;">逐步</span>被食客“抛弃”。</span></p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;">按照</span>天眼查的数据，过桥米线<span style="color: black;">关联</span>企业超过了6.5万家，<span style="color: black;">然则</span>存续、在业状态的<span style="color: black;">仅有</span>3万多家。<span style="color: black;">亦</span><span style="color: black;">便是</span>说，超过一半的过桥米线<span style="color: black;">关联</span>企业是吊销或注销状态。</span></p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;">做为</span>云南美食的“名片”，过桥米线曾经“红得发紫”，如今怎么就<span style="color: black;">逐步</span>没落了？</span></p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><img src="data:image/svg+xml,%3C%3Fxml version=1.0 encoding=UTF-8%3F%3E%3Csvg width=1px height=1px viewBox=0 0 1 1 version=1.1 xmlns=http://www.w3.org/2000/svg xmlns:xlink=http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink%3E%3Ctitle%3E%3C/title%3E%3Cg stroke=none stroke-width=1 fill=none fill-rule=evenodd fill-opacity=0%3E%3Cg transform=translate(-249.000000, -126.000000) fill=%23FFFFFF%3E%3Crect x=249 y=126 width=1 height=1%3E%3C/rect%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"></p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;">过桥米线兼顾南北口味，米线<span style="color: black;">口味</span>爽滑筋道，还有<span style="color: black;">非常多</span>配菜。</span></p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><img src="data:image/svg+xml,%3C%3Fxml version=1.0 encoding=UTF-8%3F%3E%3Csvg width=1px height=1px viewBox=0 0 1 1 version=1.1 xmlns=http://www.w3.org/2000/svg xmlns:xlink=http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink%3E%3Ctitle%3E%3C/title%3E%3Cg stroke=none stroke-width=1 fill=none fill-rule=evenodd fill-opacity=0%3E%3Cg transform=translate(-249.000000, -126.000000) fill=%23FFFFFF%3E%3Crect x=249 y=126 width=1 height=1%3E%3C/rect%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"></p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><strong style="color: blue;">又贵又不正宗的过桥米线</strong></p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><strong style="color: blue;"><span style="color: black;">青年</span>人不爱吃了</strong></p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;">俗话说：“云南十八怪，过桥米线人人爱。”在芸芸米线之中，唯独过桥米线最广为人知。一碗滚烫的高汤，搭配汆烫好的米线，再加上十数碟荤素搭配的配菜，过桥米线堪<span style="color: black;">叫作</span>“一个人的盛宴”。</span></p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;">独特的“仪式感”、<span style="color: black;">背面</span><span style="color: black;">包含</span>的“琴瑟和鸣”的故事，<span style="color: black;">作为</span>过桥米线走出云南、遍布全国的助燃剂。<span style="color: black;">由于</span>过桥米线，<span style="color: black;">公众</span>才更<span style="color: black;">认识</span>云南丰富的米线文化。</span></p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;">和重庆小面、兰州拉面等地域性美食走过的路类似，不少过桥米线品牌店，如今<span style="color: black;">已然</span>成功“登堂入室”——从传统的街边独立小店，升级为购物商场连锁店。</span></p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;">当然，除了环境，一同升级的还少不了价格。</span></p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;">在云南之外，想吃上一碗过桥米线，<span style="color: black;">最少</span>得花25—40元。</span></p><img src="data:image/svg+xml,%3C%3Fxml version=1.0 encoding=UTF-8%3F%3E%3Csvg width=1px height=1px viewBox=0 0 1 1 version=1.1 xmlns=http://www.w3.org/2000/svg xmlns:xlink=http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink%3E%3Ctitle%3E%3C/title%3E%3Cg stroke=none stroke-width=1 fill=none fill-rule=evenodd fill-opacity=0%3E%3Cg transform=translate(-249.000000, -126.000000) fill=%23FFFFFF%3E%3Crect x=249 y=126 width=1 height=1%3E%3C/rect%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"><span style="color: black;">冷笑话：<span style="color: black;">为何</span>过桥米线这么贵？可能含“过桥费”吧。（图/小红书@小马在大马）</span><span style="color: black;">艾媒咨询2021年的一则调查<span style="color: black;">表示</span>，<span style="color: black;">选取</span>消费中式快餐的人<span style="color: black;">广泛</span>预算都不高，43.7%的人预算在20元以下，85.2%的人可接受的价格不超过30元。</span><span style="color: black;">但物价早已水涨船高，20元的午餐预算有时连一盒轻食沙拉都买不起，动辄三四十元的过桥米线，<span style="color: black;">更加是</span>在挑战打工人的钱包。</span><img src="data:image/svg+xml,%3C%3Fxml version=1.0 encoding=UTF-8%3F%3E%3Csvg width=1px height=1px viewBox=0 0 1 1 version=1.1 xmlns=http://www.w3.org/2000/svg xmlns:xlink=http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink%3E%3Ctitle%3E%3C/title%3E%3Cg stroke=none stroke-width=1 fill=none fill-rule=evenodd fill-opacity=0%3E%3Cg transform=translate(-249.000000, -126.000000) fill=%23FFFFFF%3E%3Crect x=249 y=126 width=1 height=1%3E%3C/rect%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"><span style="color: black;">2021年中国网民食用中式快餐可接受价格。（图/网易数读）</span><span style="color: black;">更让人<span style="color: black;">没法</span>接受的是，你“斥巨资”买来的这一碗过桥米线，大多并不正宗。</span><span style="color: black;">当看到服务员像对待其他食材<span style="color: black;">同样</span>，毫不犹豫地将鹌鹑蛋直接推入高汤中，云南人<span style="color: black;">亦</span>只能无奈地摇摇头，这大概是<span style="color: black;">她们</span>极少在<span style="color: black;">外区</span>吃米线的<span style="color: black;">原由</span>。</span><span style="color: black;">最正宗的吃法，应该是将肉片先放入打散后的鹌鹑蛋液中，让其裹满蛋液后再放入高汤中烫熟，<span style="color: black;">才可</span>让肉的<span style="color: black;">口味</span>更爽滑鲜美。</span><img src="data:image/svg+xml,%3C%3Fxml version=1.0 encoding=UTF-8%3F%3E%3Csvg width=1px height=1px viewBox=0 0 1 1 version=1.1 xmlns=http://www.w3.org/2000/svg xmlns:xlink=http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink%3E%3Ctitle%3E%3C/title%3E%3Cg stroke=none stroke-width=1 fill=none fill-rule=evenodd fill-opacity=0%3E%3Cg transform=translate(-249.000000, -126.000000) fill=%23FFFFFF%3E%3Crect x=249 y=126 width=1 height=1%3E%3C/rect%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"><span style="color: black;">过桥米线<span style="color: black;">必须</span>的鹌鹑蛋，原来大有妙用。</span><span style="color: black;">当然，这一点<span style="color: black;">需求</span>得有点苛刻了，但类似的“谜之操作”可不止这些。</span><span style="color: black;">为了节省时间、耗材，不少门店<span style="color: black;">乃至</span>贴心地帮你“过桥”——直接把配菜都预先倒入高汤中煮好，让你分不清上桌的<span style="color: black;">到底</span>算是过桥米线还是“过桥麻辣烫”。</span><img src="data:image/svg+xml,%3C%3Fxml version=1.0 encoding=UTF-8%3F%3E%3Csvg width=1px height=1px viewBox=0 0 1 1 version=1.1 xmlns=http://www.w3.org/2000/svg xmlns:xlink=http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink%3E%3Ctitle%3E%3C/title%3E%3Cg stroke=none stroke-width=1 fill=none fill-rule=evenodd fill-opacity=0%3E%3Cg transform=translate(-249.000000, -126.000000) fill=%23FFFFFF%3E%3Crect x=249 y=126 width=1 height=1%3E%3C/rect%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"><span style="color: black;">某知名连锁米线店的招牌过桥米线。任谁看，这都是一碗清汤麻辣烫吧？（图/贾辉）</span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;">另外</span>，过桥米线的灵魂——滚烫、现熬的高汤，如今<span style="color: black;">亦</span>难免被“科技与狠活”染指。</span><span style="color: black;">部分商家用浓汤宝、香精勾兑汤底，用价格更便宜的干米线，配菜的种类、分量能少则少。</span><span style="color: black;">为了<span style="color: black;">加强</span>客单价，不少过桥米线店还加入小吃、烧烤、米饭等品类。在吃过桥米线的<span style="color: black;">同期</span>，你还能吃到四川的蒜泥白肉、重庆的口水鸡翅，<span style="color: black;">乃至</span>是日式的串烧茄子……</span><span style="color: black;">曾经非常强调云南风情的过桥米线店，<span style="color: black;">逐步</span>变<span style="color: black;">成为了</span>“四不像”的小吃快餐店。</span><img src="data:image/svg+xml,%3C%3Fxml version=1.0 encoding=UTF-8%3F%3E%3Csvg width=1px height=1px viewBox=0 0 1 1 version=1.1 xmlns=http://www.w3.org/2000/svg xmlns:xlink=http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink%3E%3Ctitle%3E%3C/title%3E%3Cg stroke=none stroke-width=1 fill=none fill-rule=evenodd fill-opacity=0%3E%3Cg transform=translate(-249.000000, -126.000000) fill=%23FFFFFF%3E%3Crect x=249 y=126 width=1 height=1%3E%3C/rect%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"><span style="color: black;">2022年5月发布的过桥米线餐饮加工卫生规范。（图/百科）</span><span style="color: black;">究其<span style="color: black;">基本</span>，只因过桥米线的定位尴尬。</span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;">倘若</span>定位为平民快餐，动辄三四十元一份的价格太贵，<span style="color: black;">况且</span>分量太少，不扛饿，难以<span style="color: black;">作为</span>快餐的首选；</span><span style="color: black;">定位为中高端餐饮，过桥米线的分餐制、较短的用餐时间，又并不适合宴请、聚餐。</span><span style="color: black;">在个性和<span style="color: black;">商场</span>化的拉扯中，过桥米线<span style="color: black;">本来</span>鲜明的特质<span style="color: black;">逐步</span>变得模糊，<span style="color: black;">显出</span>“<span style="color: black;">水土不适应</span>”。</span><img src="data:image/svg+xml,%3C%3Fxml version=1.0 encoding=UTF-8%3F%3E%3Csvg width=1px height=1px viewBox=0 0 1 1 version=1.1 xmlns=http://www.w3.org/2000/svg xmlns:xlink=http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink%3E%3Ctitle%3E%3C/title%3E%3Cg stroke=none stroke-width=1 fill=none fill-rule=evenodd fill-opacity=0%3E%3Cg transform=translate(-249.000000, -126.000000) fill=%23FFFFFF%3E%3Crect x=249 y=126 width=1 height=1%3E%3C/rect%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"><span style="color: black;">过桥米线，一个人太贵，一群人太“小”。（图/视觉中国）</span><img src="data:image/svg+xml,%3C%3Fxml version=1.0 encoding=UTF-8%3F%3E%3Csvg width=1px height=1px viewBox=0 0 1 1 version=1.1 xmlns=http://www.w3.org/2000/svg xmlns:xlink=http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink%3E%3Ctitle%3E%3C/title%3E%3Cg stroke=none stroke-width=1 fill=none fill-rule=evenodd fill-opacity=0%3E%3Cg transform=translate(-249.000000, -126.000000) fill=%23FFFFFF%3E%3Crect x=249 y=126 width=1 height=1%3E%3C/rect%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"><strong style="color: blue;">正宗的过桥米线，走不出云南？</strong><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;">日前</span>，米线品牌<span style="color: black;">重点</span>分为三大阵营：扎根云南的本土米线品牌，分店遍布全国的连锁米线品牌，以云南菜为主、米线为辅的云南菜餐厅。</span><span style="color: black;">前者像建新园、桥香园等植根云南市场的品牌，主打正宗地道的云南米线，在云南本土<span style="color: black;">持有</span>较高知名度。</span><img src="data:image/svg+xml,%3C%3Fxml version=1.0 encoding=UTF-8%3F%3E%3Csvg width=1px height=1px viewBox=0 0 1 1 version=1.1 xmlns=http://www.w3.org/2000/svg xmlns:xlink=http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink%3E%3Ctitle%3E%3C/title%3E%3Cg stroke=none stroke-width=1 fill=none fill-rule=evenodd fill-opacity=0%3E%3Cg transform=translate(-249.000000, -126.000000) fill=%23FFFFFF%3E%3Crect x=249 y=126 width=1 height=1%3E%3C/rect%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"><span style="color: black;">1988年在云南成立的桥香园，是最早的米线品牌，曾在全国开了100多家门店，后因家族内斗，退守云南市场。（图/小红书@cmizru酱）</span><span style="color: black;">而知名度更高的连锁米线品牌，发源地大多不是云南。</span><span style="color: black;">蒙自源的创始人虽然来自云南，但<span style="color: black;">机构</span>的创立地却是广东东莞；阿香米线创立于山东淄博，最早叫“阿香拉面”，为了实现去厨师化、标准化的规模化发展，从卖拉面改卖米线。</span><span style="color: black;">这些连锁米线品牌主打的并不是传统的过桥米线，方便快捷、便宜大碗、口味多样的小锅米线、快捷米线等才是销量更高的主营<span style="color: black;">制品</span>。</span><img src="data:image/svg+xml,%3C%3Fxml version=1.0 encoding=UTF-8%3F%3E%3Csvg width=1px height=1px viewBox=0 0 1 1 version=1.1 xmlns=http://www.w3.org/2000/svg xmlns:xlink=http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink%3E%3Ctitle%3E%3C/title%3E%3Cg stroke=none stroke-width=1 fill=none fill-rule=evenodd fill-opacity=0%3E%3Cg transform=translate(-249.000000, -126.000000) fill=%23FFFFFF%3E%3Crect x=249 y=126 width=1 height=1%3E%3C/rect%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"><span style="color: black;">分店越开越多，“云南味”越来越淡。（图/红餐品牌<span style="color: black;">科研</span>院）</span><span style="color: black;">不难<span style="color: black;">发掘</span>，正宗的过桥米线叫好不叫座。</span><span style="color: black;">在餐饮行业，想要实现规模化、<span style="color: black;">连续</span>性的发展，离不开去厨师化、标准化。而过桥米线的“基因”，显然与此相悖。</span><span style="color: black;">正宗的过桥米线，从汤底、米线、配菜、吃法都有讲究，<span style="color: black;">况且</span>与云南本土工艺难以分离。其中，“<span style="color: black;">怎样</span>正确地吃一碗过桥米线”，是<span style="color: black;">能够</span>出一本书的程度。</span><img src="data:image/svg+xml,%3C%3Fxml version=1.0 encoding=UTF-8%3F%3E%3Csvg width=1px height=1px viewBox=0 0 1 1 version=1.1 xmlns=http://www.w3.org/2000/svg xmlns:xlink=http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink%3E%3Ctitle%3E%3C/title%3E%3Cg stroke=none stroke-width=1 fill=none fill-rule=evenodd fill-opacity=0%3E%3Cg transform=translate(-249.000000, -126.000000) fill=%23FFFFFF%3E%3Crect x=249 y=126 width=1 height=1%3E%3C/rect%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"><span style="color: black;">“玉带过桥式”吃法。过桥米线起源于蒙自，距今已有300余年历史。（图/@今日蒙自）</span><span style="color: black;">汤底是过桥米线的灵魂，讲究一个高汤现熬，多用老母鸡、大骨、老鸭、老鹅、云南宣威火腿等经<span style="color: black;">长期</span>熬煮而成。</span><span style="color: black;">其中最经典的<span style="color: black;">便是</span>鸡汤，汤面<span style="color: black;">必要</span>覆盖着厚厚的一层鸡油，看似毫无热气，而汤温在100℃以上。</span><img src="data:image/svg+xml,%3C%3Fxml version=1.0 encoding=UTF-8%3F%3E%3Csvg width=1px height=1px viewBox=0 0 1 1 version=1.1 xmlns=http://www.w3.org/2000/svg xmlns:xlink=http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink%3E%3Ctitle%3E%3C/title%3E%3Cg stroke=none stroke-width=1 fill=none fill-rule=evenodd fill-opacity=0%3E%3Cg transform=translate(-249.000000, -126.000000) fill=%23FFFFFF%3E%3Crect x=249 y=126 width=1 height=1%3E%3C/rect%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"><span style="color: black;">汪曾祺在《人间至味》中写到，从前过桥米线用的鸡不是<span style="color: black;">通常</span>的鸡，是“武定壮鸡”——把母鸡骟了，<span style="color: black;">这般</span>母鸡就能使劲长肉变“壮”。（图/图虫创意）</span><span style="color: black;">判断一份过桥米线<span style="color: black;">是不是</span>正宗，米线<span style="color: black;">亦</span>是关键。</span><span style="color: black;">云南米线分为两大“门派”：酸浆米线和干浆米线。</span><span style="color: black;">正宗过桥米线用的是酸浆米线，是云南特有的一种米线，先用大米进行发酵，再经磨制、澄滤、蒸粉、挤压制作而成。</span><img src="data:image/svg+xml,%3C%3Fxml version=1.0 encoding=UTF-8%3F%3E%3Csvg width=1px height=1px viewBox=0 0 1 1 version=1.1 xmlns=http://www.w3.org/2000/svg xmlns:xlink=http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink%3E%3Ctitle%3E%3C/title%3E%3Cg stroke=none stroke-width=1 fill=none fill-rule=evenodd fill-opacity=0%3E%3Cg transform=translate(-249.000000, -126.000000) fill=%23FFFFFF%3E%3Crect x=249 y=126 width=1 height=1%3E%3C/rect%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"><span style="color: black;">酸浆米线。</span><span style="color: black;">酸浆米线不方便<span style="color: black;">保留</span>，做好后基本放一天就干了。再者，传统的酸浆米线制作法在工业化的冲击下，正慢慢被更便宜、方便的机制干浆米线和方便即食米线取代。</span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;">因此呢</span>，有人说：“出了云南，米线都不是米线。”<span style="color: black;">外区</span>人想要吃到正宗的<span style="color: black;">鲜嫩</span>的米线，基本不可能。</span><img src="data:image/svg+xml,%3C%3Fxml version=1.0 encoding=UTF-8%3F%3E%3Csvg width=1px height=1px viewBox=0 0 1 1 version=1.1 xmlns=http://www.w3.org/2000/svg xmlns:xlink=http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink%3E%3Ctitle%3E%3C/title%3E%3Cg stroke=none stroke-width=1 fill=none fill-rule=evenodd fill-opacity=0%3E%3Cg transform=translate(-249.000000, -126.000000) fill=%23FFFFFF%3E%3Crect x=249 y=126 width=1 height=1%3E%3C/rect%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"><span style="color: black;">云南米线还有一个鲜为人知的精髓：米线和兰州拉面<span style="color: black;">同样</span>，<span style="color: black;">亦</span><span style="color: black;">能够</span>分为一细、二细、韭叶等粗细，还有卷粉、红米线等<span style="color: black;">区别</span>品种，这都离不开云南本土的工艺。</span><span style="color: black;">正宗的过桥米线，其实是道“功夫菜”。</span><span style="color: black;">生鸡肉片、生猪肉片、猪腰片、乌鱼片、火腿片等食材，都<span style="color: black;">必要</span>切得“薄几如纸”，而又完整无缺，<span style="color: black;">才可</span>使食材在推入高汤的瞬间熟透，不生不老，恰到好处。</span><img src="data:image/svg+xml,%3C%3Fxml version=1.0 encoding=UTF-8%3F%3E%3Csvg width=1px height=1px viewBox=0 0 1 1 version=1.1 xmlns=http://www.w3.org/2000/svg xmlns:xlink=http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink%3E%3Ctitle%3E%3C/title%3E%3Cg stroke=none stroke-width=1 fill=none fill-rule=evenodd fill-opacity=0%3E%3Cg transform=translate(-249.000000, -126.000000) fill=%23FFFFFF%3E%3Crect x=249 y=126 width=1 height=1%3E%3C/rect%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"><span style="color: black;">知名美食家@沈涛 在<span style="color: black;">博客</span>上发了一段视频，在某云南菜餐厅，他点了一份过桥米线，服务员居然当着他的面，将冻成团的肉片艰难地扒开，试图放入高汤中烫熟。（图/@沈涛）</span><span style="color: black;">即便是到了“吃”这最后一步，过桥米线<span style="color: black;">亦</span><span style="color: black;">特别有</span>讲究。</span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;">做为</span>极具云南<span style="color: black;">特殊</span>的美食，传统过桥米线有隆重的仪式感，一顿正宗的过桥米线吃完<span style="color: black;">最少</span><span style="color: black;">必须</span>半小时。</span><span style="color: black;">过桥米线讲求对烹饪温度的巧妙利用，需按<span style="color: black;">食品</span>从生到熟的难易程度和高汤温度的变化，有<span style="color: black;">次序</span>地放<span style="color: black;">区别</span>的荤素配菜。</span><span style="color: black;">美食家汪曾祺曾说：“未到昆明之前，我<span style="color: black;">无</span>吃过米线，（来了以后）每星期都要吃两三回……离开昆明之后，<span style="color: black;">亦</span>几乎<span style="color: black;">无</span>再吃过米线。”</span><span style="color: black;">凡是亲自到云南吃过当地米线的人，似乎都是“曾经沧海难为水”。离开了云南的水土，米线似乎<span style="color: black;">亦</span>失去了“那种味道”。</span><img src="data:image/svg+xml,%3C%3Fxml version=1.0 encoding=UTF-8%3F%3E%3Csvg width=1px height=1px viewBox=0 0 1 1 version=1.1 xmlns=http://www.w3.org/2000/svg xmlns:xlink=http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink%3E%3Ctitle%3E%3C/title%3E%3Cg stroke=none stroke-width=1 fill=none fill-rule=evenodd fill-opacity=0%3E%3Cg transform=translate(-249.000000, -126.000000) fill=%23FFFFFF%3E%3Crect x=249 y=126 width=1 height=1%3E%3C/rect%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"><span style="color: black;">过桥米线的吃法，大有讲究。</span><img src="data:image/svg+xml,%3C%3Fxml version=1.0 encoding=UTF-8%3F%3E%3Csvg width=1px height=1px viewBox=0 0 1 1 version=1.1 xmlns=http://www.w3.org/2000/svg xmlns:xlink=http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink%3E%3Ctitle%3E%3C/title%3E%3Cg stroke=none stroke-width=1 fill=none fill-rule=evenodd fill-opacity=0%3E%3Cg transform=translate(-249.000000, -126.000000) fill=%23FFFFFF%3E%3Crect x=249 y=126 width=1 height=1%3E%3C/rect%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"><strong style="color: blue;">过桥米线，过时了？</strong><span style="color: black;">与过桥米线坎坷的“出云南记”形成鲜明对比的，则是一路高歌猛进的柳州螺蛳粉。</span><span style="color: black;">仅短短两三年间，螺蛳粉的市场规模就跃升至数百亿元。螺蛳粉的成功，可谓是集合了“天时地利人和”。</span><span style="color: black;">凭借鲜、香、辣的<span style="color: black;">剧烈</span>风味，再加上“臭中带香”的独特酸笋调料，螺蛳粉搭上了流量时代的快车，依靠“一传十，十传百”的带货效应，<span style="color: black;">快速</span><span style="color: black;">火热</span>全国。</span><span style="color: black;">再加上<span style="color: black;">背面</span>有柳州强大的工业能力支撑，螺蛳粉的出圈之路走得格外顺畅。</span><img src="data:image/svg+xml,%3C%3Fxml version=1.0 encoding=UTF-8%3F%3E%3Csvg width=1px height=1px viewBox=0 0 1 1 version=1.1 xmlns=http://www.w3.org/2000/svg xmlns:xlink=http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink%3E%3Ctitle%3E%3C/title%3E%3Cg stroke=none stroke-width=1 fill=none fill-rule=evenodd fill-opacity=0%3E%3Cg transform=translate(-249.000000, -126.000000) fill=%23FFFFFF%3E%3Crect x=249 y=126 width=1 height=1%3E%3C/rect%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"><span style="color: black;">云南米线的<span style="color: black;">表率</span>是过桥米线，广西米粉的佼佼者则非螺蛳粉莫属。</span><span style="color: black;">与<span style="color: black;">特殊</span>鲜明的螺蛳粉相比，过桥米线则多少<span style="color: black;">显出</span>有点不温不火，<span style="color: black;">乃至</span>有些“过时”。</span><span style="color: black;">过桥米线强调鲜味，对食材<span style="color: black;">需求</span>较高，口味偏清淡，显然与这个“食辣”时代格格不入。</span><span style="color: black;">更适宜堂食的过桥米线，<span style="color: black;">亦</span>注定难以<span style="color: black;">作为</span><span style="color: black;">青年</span>人点外卖的首选。你<span style="color: black;">乃至</span>不<span style="color: black;">晓得</span>送达的会是“过桥麻辣烫”还是浑水摸鱼的“过桥米粉”。</span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;">区别</span>于媲美线下门店的袋装速食螺蛳粉，尽管袋装的速食过桥米线<span style="color: black;">已然</span>是非常成熟的<span style="color: black;">制品</span>，但始终难以还原正宗过桥米线的质感，让人感觉还不如吃一包方便面来得<span style="color: black;">方便</span>、美味。</span><img src="data:image/svg+xml,%3C%3Fxml version=1.0 encoding=UTF-8%3F%3E%3Csvg width=1px height=1px viewBox=0 0 1 1 version=1.1 xmlns=http://www.w3.org/2000/svg xmlns:xlink=http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink%3E%3Ctitle%3E%3C/title%3E%3Cg stroke=none stroke-width=1 fill=none fill-rule=evenodd fill-opacity=0%3E%3Cg transform=translate(-249.000000, -126.000000) fill=%23FFFFFF%3E%3Crect x=249 y=126 width=1 height=1%3E%3C/rect%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"><span style="color: black;">速食过桥米线，始终差点意思。（图/小红书@Pluto）</span><span style="color: black;">难以走出云南的过桥米线，在当地的角色<span style="color: black;">亦</span>越发尴尬。对云南当地人而言，过桥米线<span style="color: black;">逐步</span>变<span style="color: black;">成为了</span>一种非必要的“仪式”的存在。</span><span style="color: black;">昆明云线楼的过桥米线，一份盛惠68元，在滚烫的高汤碗之外，“镶嵌”了一个可旋转的圆环形桌板，上面放了满满一圈的配菜。但这显然不是云南当地人会用来填饱肚子的选项，街边小店10元、20元一碗的小锅米线、豆花米线，才是<span style="color: black;">她们</span>更<span style="color: black;">平常</span>的<span style="color: black;">选取</span>。</span><img src="data:image/svg+xml,%3C%3Fxml version=1.0 encoding=UTF-8%3F%3E%3Csvg width=1px height=1px viewBox=0 0 1 1 version=1.1 xmlns=http://www.w3.org/2000/svg xmlns:xlink=http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink%3E%3Ctitle%3E%3C/title%3E%3Cg stroke=none stroke-width=1 fill=none fill-rule=evenodd fill-opacity=0%3E%3Cg transform=translate(-249.000000, -126.000000) fill=%23FFFFFF%3E%3Crect x=249 y=126 width=1 height=1%3E%3C/rect%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"><span style="color: black;">云线楼，一家能听戏、喝茶、吃米线的茶楼。（图/小红书@尹老师爱吃肉）</span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;">然则</span>，<span style="color: black;">针对</span>每一个到云南的游客而言，去打卡一顿仪式感满满的过桥米线，却是必不可少的行程。</span><span style="color: black;">陈晓卿在《至味在人间》中写道：“当地<span style="color: black;">特殊</span>是一种约定俗成的判断，它更<span style="color: black;">大都是</span><span style="color: black;">做为</span>一种概念存在。吃<span style="color: black;">特殊</span>菜，<span style="color: black;">亦</span>就相当于在埃菲尔铁塔下拍了张照片，<span style="color: black;">寓意</span>着去过巴黎了。”</span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;">不外</span>，<span style="color: black;">针对</span>食客而言，其实过桥米线能否走出云南似乎与<span style="color: black;">她们</span>关系不大，没了过桥米线，<span style="color: black;">她们</span>还有兰州拉面、沙县小吃、长沙米粉、重庆小面……</span><span style="color: black;">毕竟，竞争激烈、九死<span style="color: black;">一辈子</span>的餐饮市场，从来不缺一碗过桥米线。</span><strong style="color: blue;"><span style="color: black;">校对：赖晓妮，运营：嘻嘻，</span><span style="color: black;">排版：</span><span style="color: black;">韩博菲</span></strong><img src="data:image/svg+xml,%3C%3Fxml version=1.0 encoding=UTF-8%3F%3E%3Csvg width=1px height=1px viewBox=0 0 1 1 version=1.1 xmlns=http://www.w3.org/2000/svg xmlns:xlink=http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink%3E%3Ctitle%3E%3C/title%3E%3Cg stroke=none stroke-width=1 fill=none fill-rule=evenodd fill-opacity=0%3E%3Cg transform=translate(-249.000000, -126.000000) fill=%23FFFFFF%3E%3Crect x=249 y=126 width=1 height=1%3E%3C/rect%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"><span style="color: black;">中国米线<span style="color: black;">第1</span>大省！你给认得在云南甩米线<span style="color: black;">到底</span>有多少种<span style="color: black;">花招</span>？丨极物</span><span style="color: black;">过桥米线——一味传承百年的佳肴丨云熵位置智能</span><span style="color: black;"> 《<span style="color: black;">膳食</span>类非物质文化遗产的 “嵌入式” 传承与精品化发展——以云南过桥米线为例》，程小敏，于干千，《思想战线》</span><img src="data:image/svg+xml,%3C%3Fxml version=1.0 encoding=UTF-8%3F%3E%3Csvg width=1px height=1px viewBox=0 0 1 1 version=1.1 xmlns=http://www.w3.org/2000/svg xmlns:xlink=http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink%3E%3Ctitle%3E%3C/title%3E%3Cg stroke=none stroke-width=1 fill=none fill-rule=evenodd fill-opacity=0%3E%3Cg transform=translate(-249.000000, -126.000000) fill=%23FFFFFF%3E%3Crect x=249 y=126 width=1 height=1%3E%3C/rect%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"><img src="data:image/svg+xml,%3C%3Fxml version=1.0 encoding=UTF-8%3F%3E%3Csvg width=1px height=1px viewBox=0 0 1 1 version=1.1 xmlns=http://www.w3.org/2000/svg xmlns:xlink=http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink%3E%3Ctitle%3E%3C/title%3E%3Cg stroke=none stroke-width=1 fill=none fill-rule=evenodd fill-opacity=0%3E%3Cg transform=translate(-249.000000, -126.000000) fill=%23FFFFFF%3E%3Crect x=249 y=126 width=1 height=1%3E%3C/rect%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"><a style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><img src="data:image/svg+xml,%3C%3Fxml version=1.0 encoding=UTF-8%3F%3E%3Csvg width=1px height=1px viewBox=0 0 1 1 version=1.1 xmlns=http://www.w3.org/2000/svg xmlns:xlink=http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink%3E%3Ctitle%3E%3C/title%3E%3Cg stroke=none stroke-width=1 fill=none fill-rule=evenodd fill-opacity=0%3E%3Cg transform=translate(-249.000000, -126.000000) fill=%23FFFFFF%3E%3Crect x=249 y=126 width=1 height=1%3E%3C/rect%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"></span></span></a><a style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><img src="data:image/svg+xml,%3C%3Fxml version=1.0 encoding=UTF-8%3F%3E%3Csvg width=1px height=1px viewBox=0 0 1 1 version=1.1 xmlns=http://www.w3.org/2000/svg xmlns:xlink=http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink%3E%3Ctitle%3E%3C/title%3E%3Cg stroke=none stroke-width=1 fill=none fill-rule=evenodd fill-opacity=0%3E%3Cg transform=translate(-249.000000, -126.000000) fill=%23FFFFFF%3E%3Crect x=249 y=126 width=1 height=1%3E%3C/rect%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"></span></span></a><a style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><img src="data:image/svg+xml,%3C%3Fxml version=1.0 encoding=UTF-8%3F%3E%3Csvg width=1px height=1px viewBox=0 0 1 1 version=1.1 xmlns=http://www.w3.org/2000/svg xmlns:xlink=http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink%3E%3Ctitle%3E%3C/title%3E%3Cg stroke=none stroke-width=1 fill=none fill-rule=evenodd fill-opacity=0%3E%3Cg transform=translate(-249.000000, -126.000000) fill=%23FFFFFF%3E%3Crect x=249 y=126 width=1 height=1%3E%3C/rect%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"></span></span></a><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;">读完点</span><span style="color: black;">个【在看】 我完全赞同你的观点，思考很有深度。 我完全赞同你的观点，思考很有深度。 真情实感，其含义为认真了、走心了的意思，是如今的饭圈常用语。
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