做服装贸易必看！从面料到大货，一个服装跟单员的质检手账
<img src="https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/pgc-image/1528604129706a5286cc657~noop.image?_iz=58558&from=article.pc_detail&lk3s=953192f4&x-expires=1723868232&x-signature=8YHAw%2Fp4d0I5AoJORkSs9j97Cc8%3D" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"><p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">说起服装贸易，就免不了说一说服装跟单员。这种职业<span style="color: black;">便是</span>“拿民工的工资，操国家的心”的人。跟单，重点在跟。虽然服装跟单员并不参与工厂的一线生产，但为了<span style="color: black;">保准</span><span style="color: black;">最后</span>的成衣品质，跟单员在服装生产的每一个<span style="color: black;">周期</span>都要跟进，<span style="color: black;">尤其</span>是要<span style="color: black;">协同</span>好采购和生产管理<span style="color: black;">关联</span>同事，积极参与各个环节的品质检验，做好面辅料检验、生产检验、成衣检验等品质<span style="color: black;">掌控</span>。否则质量出了问题，这批货可能就白干了。<span style="color: black;">那样</span>，服装上要<span style="color: black;">重视</span>跟进<span style="color: black;">那些</span>检验呢？</p><img src="https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/pgc-image/15286041296440b819b7d0e~noop.image?_iz=58558&from=article.pc_detail&lk3s=953192f4&x-expires=1723868232&x-signature=EKMUVf1cc%2BhZ64ZD%2FEbLu%2FqfARs%3D" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"><img src="https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/pgc-image/1528604129691a63303c462~noop.image?_iz=58558&from=article.pc_detail&lk3s=953192f4&x-expires=1723868232&x-signature=mPIQiYnYulAS3iO8tnEBkpnPbCY%3D" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;">
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><strong style="color: blue;">面辅料检验</strong></p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">不论是外贸<span style="color: black;">机构</span>自己采购面辅料还<span style="color: black;">是由于</span>外发工厂<span style="color: black;">自动</span>采购，跟单员都要参与面辅料检验环节，认真填写大货面辅料验收表，既便于后期查看，<span style="color: black;">亦</span>方便供应商管理。</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">面辅料运抵后，要立即检验。跟单员、面辅料部质检员、加工厂质检员三者都要参与。</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">“立即”很重要，早<span style="color: black;">发掘</span>问题，就<span style="color: black;">能够</span>及早采取<span style="color: black;">解救</span><span style="color: black;">办法</span>。</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;">由于</span>重新生产面料是<span style="color: black;">必须</span>时间的。尤其是<span style="color: black;">有些</span>特殊规格的面料，如经纬纱支或经纬密度<span style="color: black;">区别</span>于市售的常用规格，就<span style="color: black;">必须</span>定织定染。还有<span style="color: black;">有些</span>的面料如色织面料，会<span style="color: black;">必须</span>较长的生产周期。</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;">平常</span>的抽查量为总量的10%。但<span style="color: black;">倘若</span>面料的价值较高，<span style="color: black;">或</span>客户有<span style="color: black;">必须</span>时，在抽检合格后还要进行100%检验。</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">面料检验内容<span style="color: black;">重点</span><span style="color: black;">包含</span>外观和品质两方面。</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;">详细</span>应<span style="color: black;">包括</span>面辅料颜色、量度、克重、经纬、面料组织结构、色牢度、缩水率等。</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">应<span style="color: black;">经过</span>测试--<span style="color: black;">检测</span>--反馈等环节，全面考察面辅料质量。</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">面料检验项目<span style="color: black;">包含</span><span style="color: black;">理学</span>和化学性能的测试及外观检验。</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">外观检验仅仅是面料检验的一部分，目测所<span style="color: black;">不可</span>及的内在质量必须<span style="color: black;">经过</span>实验室测试。</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">大<span style="color: black;">都数</span>客户<span style="color: black;">一般</span>会<span style="color: black;">需求</span>指定测试<span style="color: black;">公司</span>测试并确认面料测试报告。</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">即使客户不<span style="color: black;">需求</span>，收货时<span style="color: black;">亦</span>应该对面料取样并测试。</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;">倘若</span>测试<span style="color: black;">已然</span>合格，<span style="color: black;">机构</span><span style="color: black;">能够</span>有<span style="color: black;">选取</span>地测试<span style="color: black;">有些</span>与服装加工密切<span style="color: black;">关联</span>的项目，如测定较<span style="color: black;">都数</span>量面料的缩水率、烫缩率等，以<span style="color: black;">得到</span>准确的工艺数据。</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;">通常</span><span style="color: black;">状况</span>下面料采用10分、4分评定法，布料<span style="color: black;">检测</span><span style="color: black;">通常</span>以随机抽样形式进行。</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;">另一</span><span style="color: black;">必须</span><span style="color: black;">重视</span>的是<span style="color: black;">倘若</span>面料是进口的，要将完整资料提交给船务部。</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><strong style="color: blue;"><span style="color: black;">通常</span><span style="color: black;">来讲</span>，一个订单的面辅料检验过程<span style="color: black;">必须</span>耗时2-3天。</strong></p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><strong style="color: blue;">生产验货流程</strong></p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">1.面辅料清点：面辅料到厂后，跟单员要督促工厂最<span style="color: black;">短期</span>内<span style="color: black;">按照</span>发货单<span style="color: black;">仔细</span>盘点，若<span style="color: black;">显现</span>短码/少料现象要亲自参与清点并确认。</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">2.产前样确认：如工厂前期未打过样品，须安排其速打出投产前样确认，并将检验结果书面<span style="color: black;">通告</span>工厂负责人和工厂技术科。特殊<span style="color: black;">状况</span>下须交至<span style="color: black;">机构</span>或客户确认,整改无误后方可投产。</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">3.校对裁剪样版：校对后方可对其进行版长确认，<span style="color: black;">仔细</span>记录后的单耗确认书由工厂负责人签名确认，并<span style="color: black;">通告</span>其开裁。</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">4.核对面辅料溢缺值：<span style="color: black;">按照</span>双方确认后的单耗要与工厂<span style="color: black;">一起</span>核对面辅料的溢缺值，并将<span style="color: black;">详细</span>数据以书面形式<span style="color: black;">通告</span><span style="color: black;">机构</span>。</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">5.半成品检验：投产初期<span style="color: black;">必要</span><span style="color: black;">每一个</span>车间、每道工序高标准地进行半成品检验，如有问题要<span style="color: black;">即时</span>反映工厂负责人和相应管理人员，并监督、<span style="color: black;">帮助</span>工厂落实整改。</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">6.首件下线成品检验：<span style="color: black;">每一个</span>车间首件成品下线后，要对其尺寸、做工、款式、工艺进行全面细致地检验。出具检验报告书（大货生产初期/中期/末期）及整改意见，经加工厂负责人签字确认后留工厂一份，自留一份并传真<span style="color: black;">机构</span>。</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">7.后道检验：成品进入后整理车间,需随时<span style="color: black;">检测</span><span style="color: black;">实质</span>操作工人的整烫、包装等质量，并不<span style="color: black;">定时</span>抽验包装好的成品，要做到有问题早<span style="color: black;">发掘</span>、早处理。 </p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">8.总结报告：对生产过程中各环节（<span style="color: black;">包含</span>本<span style="color: black;">机构</span>相应<span style="color: black;">分部</span>和各业务单位）的协同<span style="color: black;">协同</span>力度、<span style="color: black;">显现</span>的问题、对问题的反应处理能力以及<span style="color: black;">全部</span>订单操作<span style="color: black;">状况</span>进行总结,以书面形式报告<span style="color: black;">机构</span>主管领导。</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">PS：在<span style="color: black;">检测</span>过程中<span style="color: black;">必定</span>要公平，真实。<span style="color: black;">不可</span>收到厂家的一点点好处，而忘了自己的职责。</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><strong style="color: blue;">跟单员<span style="color: black;">首要</span>要清楚成衣品质的总体<span style="color: black;">需求</span></strong></p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">1、面料、辅料品质优良，符合客户<span style="color: black;">需求</span>，大货得到客户确认或得到权威认证<span style="color: black;">公司</span>的检验报告；</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">2、款式配色准确无误；</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">3、尺寸在<span style="color: black;">准许</span>的误差范围内；</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">4、做工精良；</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">5、<span style="color: black;">制品</span>干净、整洁、卖相好；</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">6、包装美观、配比正确、纸箱<span style="color: black;">体积</span>适合、适于长途运输。</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><strong style="color: blue;">对总体<span style="color: black;">需求</span>心中有数之后，跟单员要做<span style="color: black;">那些</span>事呢？</strong></p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">最重要的<span style="color: black;">便是</span>督促工厂认真进行成品检验</p><img src="https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/pgc-image/1528604129859692fdfafd9~noop.image?_iz=58558&from=article.pc_detail&lk3s=953192f4&x-expires=1723868232&x-signature=bccSnNiM1xZVlnOwU7dLv3%2FRtbU%3D" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;">
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;">制品</span>出运前，<span style="color: black;">必要</span>对所有的<span style="color: black;">制品</span>作 100% 的<span style="color: black;">检测</span>。跟单员应<span style="color: black;">尽可能</span>在现场参与成品抽检，<span style="color: black;">协同</span>好自己<span style="color: black;">机构</span>的驻厂QC。</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;">倘若</span><span style="color: black;">检测</span><span style="color: black;">经过</span>不了，工厂需负100%的责任，要对这些货原地做100%的<span style="color: black;">检测</span>，<span style="color: black;">同期</span>跟单员需报告给买主<span style="color: black;">最后</span>的返工<span style="color: black;">状况</span>。</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">所有开支与返工<span style="color: black;">关联</span>连而<span style="color: black;">出现</span>的<span style="color: black;">花费</span>，应由工厂负责。</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">常用的标准为AQL，即质量可接受水平（acceptance quality limit），指当一个连续系列批被提交验收时，可<span style="color: black;">准许</span>的最差过程平均质量水平。在AQL抽样时，抽取的数量相同，而AQL后面跟的数值越小，<span style="color: black;">准许</span>的瑕疵数量就越少，说明品质<span style="color: black;">需求</span>越高，检验就相对较严。</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;">详细</span><span style="color: black;">每一个</span>订单AQL标准并不相同，这同订单的<span style="color: black;">体积</span>，<span style="color: black;">最后</span>质量<span style="color: black;">需求</span>、客户<span style="color: black;">相关</span>，<span style="color: black;">通常</span>比较多的是AQL4.0，当然<span style="color: black;">亦</span>有少量的 2.5或 6.5。</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">检验完成后，应出具书面的成衣<span style="color: black;">最后</span><span style="color: black;">检测</span>表，除了检验结果外，还应<span style="color: black;">包括</span>以下几项信息：</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">1.箱麦</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">2.纸箱毛重、尺寸</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">3.货净重</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">4.<span style="color: black;">最后</span>尺寸、颜色搭配<span style="color: black;">状况</span></p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><strong style="color: blue;">检针检验</strong></p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;">因为</span>生产过程中管理不善或<span style="color: black;">有些</span>偶然<span style="color: black;">状况</span>，服装等绗缝制品中<span style="color: black;">常常</span>会有残断针(<span style="color: black;">包含</span>缝针、大头针等)存在。</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">上世纪80年代，因服装中残、断针所<span style="color: black;">导致</span>的消费者<span style="color: black;">损伤</span>事件频频<span style="color: black;">出现</span>，这<span style="color: black;">促进</span>欧美多国政府以立法形式颁布消费者权益<span style="color: black;">守护</span>法规，以加强对残、断针的<span style="color: black;">掌控</span>。</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;">因此呢</span>服装进口商为避免因残断针<span style="color: black;">导致</span>经济损失，<span style="color: black;">常常</span>不仅<span style="color: black;">需求</span>生产商在<span style="color: black;">制品</span>出厂前进行检针，还会专门设立检品工厂从事检针工作。对经检针合格的<span style="color: black;">制品</span>，悬挂或加贴检针标志。</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">即使客户<span style="color: black;">无</span><span style="color: black;">关联</span><span style="color: black;">需求</span>，为了<span style="color: black;">加强</span>服装品质，避免断针对消费者<span style="color: black;">导致</span>损害，跟单员<span style="color: black;">亦</span>应该<span style="color: black;">尽可能</span><span style="color: black;">需求</span>加工厂进行验针检验。</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><strong style="color: blue;">服装测试检验 </strong></p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">跟单员应<span style="color: black;">保存</span>好前期面辅料检验中的面辅料测试报告，如色牢度、缩水率、拉伸强度等，<span style="color: black;">做为</span>服装测试整体结果的一部分。</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">成衣加工好后，<span style="color: black;">亦</span>应做相应测试：</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">-由<span style="color: black;">检测</span>者从大货中抽出</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">-与大货相同的，同等质量样品组的衣服做测试</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">-用标准成衣水洗测试<span style="color: black;">办法</span>，由工厂自己做测试</p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">-<span style="color: black;">最后</span>实验<span style="color: black;">必要</span>由验货员自己查看</p>
<h2 style="color: black; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 10px;">（<span style="color: black;">源自</span>：纺织印染服装平台）</h2>
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